Lake Skadar is one of Montenegro’s most atmospheric landscapes, and exploring it by boat is easily one of the best ways to experience the national park. But where you start your tour makes a big difference. Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića each offer a distinct style, pace, and perspective on the lake. Having taken boat tours from both, we feel that we can confidently break down the differences.

This guide compares boat tours from Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića in detail, helping you choose the best for your travel style.

Virpazar is the traditional gateway to Lake Skadar and the most popular place to join a boat tour.

This is also the village we chose as our base and the ideal place for those seeking convenience and accessibility.

Virpazar is a small settlement in the Crmnica region, at the confluence of the Orahovštica and Crmnica rivers into Lake Skadar.

The name comes from Vir (whirlpool) and pazar (market), and it was an importan trading post for the region over the history. Today, it’s still a marketplace of sorts, but with an obvious focus on boat tours and wine tasting.

It’s also the most popular base for travellers, and we understand it. It’s the easiest to reach, the only practical option if using public transport, and it provides the largest offering of boat tours.

Sitting right on the lakeshore, it offers easy access to both the open lake and some of the water channels branching off the main body.

Tours from Virpazar are slow-paced, scenic, and ideal for travellers who want a relaxing experience.

Most of the tours take place in traditional, wooden boat (čun), whose slim and shallow-based design is perfect for gliding across the lake’s calm waters. Apparently there are also some less-attractive, double-decked boats, but we haven’t personally seen any. We believe that those are used mainly in case of adverse weather conditions or to host large tours.

Boats are usually skippered by a local guide, who also shares the history of the key landmarks along the way. The capitan will also try to spot local birds (about 280 distinct species populate the lake), but unless you’re on a dedicated birdwatching tour, they won’t go into much detail about each species.

The pace of these tours is usually calm, with opportunities for photos, relaxation, swimming and generous glasses of wine.

From Virpazar, tours usually reach the open lake quickly, where wide stretches of water, island views and key birdwatching spots dominate the experience. Venturing into the northern section of the lake, most tours also weave through the water channels and broad lily‑pad fields near the mouth of the Morača River, though you’ll see fewer of these compared with the area closer to Rijeka Crnojevića.

Virpazar is essentially a single lively road lined with kiosks, each staffed by overenthusiastic vendors eager to sell you their tours. To keep the chaos manageable, you can follow two main strategies.

The first is booking ahead with operators that have a solid online presence.

Most blogs highlight Kingfisher, one of the oldest companies in town, with 20 years of experience and the largest number of reviews. We chose them for our 2h tour (€20 per person) and genuinely enjoyed it. They also run birdwatching, 3h and private tours.

Another well-rated option is Boat Milica, known for more intimate, personalised experiences. Their group tours broadly mirror Kingfisher’s offering, but with an emphasis on “tailor‑made” private trips.

Some operators have a smaller online footprint but compensate with variety. Boat Falcon, for example, offers an impressive range of tours (1–6 hours) and different boat types, from speedboats to traditional vessels.

Our hotel, De’Andros, also runs its own tour which you can check out here. Their public routes are similar to Kingfisher’s 2‑ and 3‑hour itineraries, but with the added perk of a quieter, more private feel that often comes with a 4‑star hotel.

All of these can be booked online, but many other kiosks offer comparable routes and prices. If you prefer choosing in person, arrive in Virpazar the day before, walk the main street, and compare operators by experience, price, duration, and departure times. For instance, Kingfisher’s first regular sailing is at 10am, while Boat Milica starts at 11am. If you want an earlier departure, scouting on the ground can help you find the perfect match.

If you really enjoyed your tours, you could also mix and match different options. For example, combining a classic 2h tour at 10am, with a 1h trip exploring the Grmožur or Lesendro fortresses at sunset, looks pretty cool.

Tours range from quick one hour loops to longer journeys that reach quieter corners of the national park. The variety means you can tailor the experience to your pace.

Most operators add their own small twist, but the classic Lake Skadar tour typically runs for about two hours, with a three‑hour version (boat trip plus fortress visit) being the next most popular choice.

• Classic 2‑hour tour | The most popular option. You’ll cross the lake’s open expanse with the Albanian Alps on the horizon, pass the historic Lesendro fortress, and navigate the bird-rich Morača river before drifting through vast fields of lily pads.
• Historic 3‑hour tour | Usually includes the above, or slight variations, plus a visit to an historic site. Most tours will stop at the 15th‑century Kom Monastery, perched on Odrin Hill and accessible only by boat. Other ones will instead focus on the Grmožur fort in the opposite direction.
• Longer 4–6 hour tours | These reach quieter corners, including Karuč and deep stretches of the Crnojevića River. Boat Falcon and Kingfisher offer these, together with a few other operators that we have seen in Virpazar. However, these areas sit much closer to Rijeka Crnojevića than to Virpazar. If you want to explore this section, a shorter tour from Rijeka Crnojevića is your best bet.
• Birdwatching tours | Lake Skadar is a birdwatching paradise, sheltering an incredible 280 different bird species. These include the dalmatian pelican, kingfisher, pygmy cormorant, egret and multiple others. Made for the twitchers, these tours usually start very early in the morning and last 2-3 hours.

As per 2026, most group tours cost around €20 per person (2h) with no significant variation between the different operators.

The cost for 3h tours is not significantly higher and it may be a good value-for-money alternative for some.

Costs rise quickly if you opt for a private tour. Depending on the boat type and duration, prices typically range from €60–€120 for a 2–3 hour trip for one person, with modest increases as more people join.

Regardless of which operator you choose, we appreciated that most of the main companies let you reserve your spot online but only pay on the day, which is a welcome flexibility if your plans shift closer to the tour.

In addition to the above, there is also a €5 National Park Fee payable as you start your tour.

The historic town of Rijeka Crnojevića is the ideal base for exploring the northern reaches of Lake Skadar.

Sitting at the end of a river which gradually opens into Lake Skadar, this traditional fishing village is ideal for those who prefer authenticity and tranquillity over convenience.

The iconic stone bridge, slow‑moving water, and surrounding hills create a postcard scene at every turn.

The town is definitely more atmospheric than Virpazar, and it offers a handful of restaurants and boat tours departing directly from the riverfront. Whilst most of the economy revolves around boat tourism, its remote setting drastically reduces the crowds compared to Virpazar.

Overall, it is a great place for those who want beauty and calm, without complete isolation.

Read this blog post for more info on the two villages and a complete guide on Lake Skadar!

The scenery in this part of the lake is beautiful, arguably better than the Virpazar side.

From Rijeka Crnojevića, tours typically begin by gliding through the Crnojevića River canyon before slipping into the maze of narrow channels flanked by water lilies. As you progress the navigation, you’ll enter the so-called Amazon Rainforest, which for some constitutes Lake Skadar most remarkable highlight. Here, you enter a layered ecosystem of tight, twisting channels where the forest canopy covers the water streams, with kingfishers often darting through the foliage. It’s a completely different vibe from the broad, open waters of the lake.

Having said that, the style of touring is very different.

All tours from Rijeka Crnojevića use small, fast speedboats. The pace is livelier, routes are shorter, and there is more emphasis on the destination rather than the journey. Due to the speed of navigation, there is also little to no opportunity to learn about your surroundings (except the Amazon section), as the skipper is usually focused on riding the boat.

Unlike Virpazar, it’s also harder to book these tours online in advance, as there simply isn’t much available. The best approach is to show up directly and arrange your tour in person. Fortunately, the town is far quieter than Virpazar, so arriving on the day and sorting everything out is usually easy.

Overall, the experience feels more adventurous compared to Virpazar and in our case, slightly less baby‑friendly (though still doable).

We looked for different boat tours before selecting ours, but most of them seem to offer pretty much the same routes.

• 30‑minute loops up to Pavlova Strana. These quick and cheap rides are ok if you’re short on time but considering the time and effort to get here, probably not the best ones in terms of value for money.
• 1–1.5 hour tours represent in our opinion the ideal sweet spot. These take you along the full Crnojevića River, take a turn to get through the so-called “Amazon rainforest” section, and some stretch as far as Karuč.
• 2‑hour tours include the above parts but often reach the open lake, the same area you’d see from Virpazar. If you’ve already toured from Virpazar, there is no point in choosing these.

Unlike Virpazar tours, speedboat trips from Rijeka Crnojevića are normally charged per boat, not per person.

Unless you’re a group of friends, in which case it may work out cheaper, it’s likely they will cost you more than taking a group tour from Virpazar. As per 2026, you can expect €40 for 30-min trips up to €80–€120 per boat for 1–1.5 hour tours. Prices don’t vary much between operators, so good bargaining skills can make a difference here.

To Know | To visit lake Skadar by boat you’ll have to pay a €5 / person national park fee. This applies whether you depart from Virpazar or Rijeka Crnojevića, and if you visit on separate days, you’ll need to pay the fee each time.

In our opinion, both offer fantastic experiences but they’re very different.

Where you stay will play a big role in your decision, especially since hopping on a boat becomes incredibly easy once you’re in these villages.

But apart from logistics, there are specific advantages and disadvantages as highlighted above.

Generally speaking, you should choose Virpazar if you want a slow, relaxing tour in traditional wooden boats. Virpazar tours also offer greater variety, from birdwatching to history‑focused routes, and they’re usually easier to book online. They also tend to be more informative, with guides who spend time storytelling and explaining the landscape around you.

Boat tours from Rijeka Crnojevića, by contrast, deliver shorter, punchier outings, emphasizing the area’s dramatic scenery. They draw fewer crowds which in turns may generate a more authentic feel, giving you an unfiltered sense of Lake Skadar’s most beautiful section.

Our Verdict | If you can, you should do both. If you must choose one, we think Virpazar has the edge thanks to its calmer pace. However, you should still visit Rijeka Crnojevića (and Pavlova Strana viewpoint) even if you don’t take a boat, as this is the most beautiful section of Lake Skadar.

Lake Skadar Travel Guide: The Ultimate Montenegro Hidden Gem

The post Lake Skadar Boat Tours: Virpazar vs. Rijeka Crnojevića appeared first on The Way We Travel.

As we crossed the mountain pass inland, leaving the glamour of Sveti Stefan behind, the landscape shifted.

The Adriatic Coast, with imposing cliffs plunging into azure waters wholly enjoyed by sunbathers, gives way to an unspoiled stretch of land. The silence louder than the waves crashing on shore, sunbeams swathing shrubs and trees in soft golden glow, revealing a swirling kaleidoscope of butterflies, a concerto of crickets and solitary tortoises at edge of the road.

Suddenly, a bend opened to deliver a spectacular vista from the top – the majestic Skadar Lake in front of our eyes. A vast basin stretching into the distance, dotted with lush green hills rising from the water like dormant volcanoes. Its surface carpeted with blooming water lilies, showing broad patches of green, blue and ochre, blending together like acrylics on an artist’s palette. Beyond them, snow-capped mountains towered on the horizon.

In an instant, we found ourselves in a place with the untamed energy of South America, but with softened edges and gently diffused colours, like if shaped by the dreamy touch of an Impressionist painter.

As the coin flipped, Montenegro showed us a different face. The Mediterranean vibe was a faded memory, paving the way for the lush and bucolic dream of Lake Skadar.

In this travel guide we’ll give you our first-hand experience on the top things to do in Lake Skadar. We’ll cover the best boat trips, top wine tasting experiences, our favourite places, accommodations and the ideal bases for your trip.

We’ll also provide you with our itinerary, perfect for slow travellers visiting solo, with friends or as a family. So that you can fall in love as much as we did.

Before going full on the best things to do and top places to stay, we should start with the basics.

Lake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero) lies on the border between Montenegro and Albania. While 65% of its surface belongs to Montenegro, the lake takes its name from Shkodër, the fourth-most-populous city in Albania.

With an area fluctuating between 370-530 km², lake Skadar is pretty big; more precisely, the largest lake in Southern Europe.

Due to its sheer size, it is fairly unrealistic to visit all the places around the lake.

From a traveller’s perspective, when someone refers to Lake Skadar, most commonly visits the Montenegrin side. And it’s convenient that the best part is within short driving, whether you come from Podgorica (20min), Sveti Stefan (45min), or even Kotor.

Montenegro packs an incredible amount into such a small country, but Lake Skadar is the place that stole our hearts.

However, it’s also important to go there with the right mindset and expectations. If you’re after buzz and a touch of glamour, then Lake Skadar is not for you. This is not Lake Como after all.

What you’ll find at Lake Skadar is instead untouched nature, secluded villages suspended in time, incredible birdlife, off-the-beaten-path wine routes and above all a serene, almost meditative tranquillity.

Perhaps it was the benefit of visiting off-season and lingering longer than a hit-and-run day trip, that won us over. Regardless, it managed to recharge our batteries like few other places before.

But it’s not all about chilling in a pretty landscape, while quietly contemplating the stillness of the water. A trip to Lake Skadar lets you unwind like a wellness retreat, yet still dive into some action.

Most of the attractions will revolve, understandably, around boat tours to explore different sections of the lake. But beyond that, it offers plenty more things to do, from scenic road trips and hiking, to wine tasting and history‑rich spots.

For these reasons, we think Lake Skadar is the perfect destination in Montenegro for a well-rounded, yet relaxing trip. And it is perfectly suitable for couples but also families (our baby boy loved his boat tours!).

Lake Skadar is praised as an oasis of tranquillity, but it’s also easily accessible.

Tour operators keep the lake firmly on their radar, and the proximity to Podgorica and the Adriatic coast means plug‑and‑play guided trips are easy to find.

This tour is a very popular Kotor day trip option for the lake, which also includes a stop at Biograd National Park.

This is by far the best way to travel around Lake Skadar, and the one we recommend for independent travellers.

Not only the driving is short (from Podgorica and even Kotor), but a car lets you explore the lake beyond the obvious points.

The road to Virpazar (Lake Skadar main hub) is well-paved, so even less confident drivers should manage it easily (the smaller roads around the lake are a different story). With your car, you can also reach Rijeka Crnojevića, which you can use as an alternative base to Virpazar.

The only drawback here is parking, which in this area could be a bit tricky. Not necessarily in Rijeka Crnojevića, which sees a significantly lower influx of tourists, but Virpazar could get notoriously busy if travelling in high season and/or weekends. An easy fix would be staying at Hotel De’Andros, which offers dedicated parking for guests, or alternatively using the parking areas just outside the centre here or here.

To find your rental car, you can use Discover Cars for some of the best deals, or Booking.com to reserve car and accommodation at the same time.

Getting to Lake Skadar using public transport is certainly more challenging, but not impossible. You just have to accept that most of your experience will revolve around Virpazar, with limited chances to move around.

From Podgorica | The best and easiest option will be the Podgorica-Bar route with a stop at Virpazar. This is a quick (15min) and economical option, and Virpazar station is only a short walk from the village centre. You can buy tickets directly at Podgorica Rail Station, onboard or online.

From Budva | At present (2026) there are no direct buses to Virpazar. Your best bet would be a bus to either Podgorica, Bar or Sutomore (€4-6) followed by train. You can check the bus schedule at busticket4.me

From Kotor | No direct public transport, and getting to Lake Skadar from Kotor would involve more creative thinking. Your best bet (depending on your schedule) would be either a bus to Budva (closer) or to Podgorica. For the next leg, you just have to follow the indications above.

We visited at the end of May and can confidently say that spring (especially May-June) is the best time to visit Lake Skadar.

Why?

The lake is at its most vibrant, perfect temperatures, lush greenery, water lilies in full bloom and peak birdlife activity. It’s perfect for boat tours and hiking, and the crowds are limited being only the beginning of the high season.

We haven’t experienced it ourselves, but September–October should make an excellent backup plan, with warm weather and quieter trails. Most people recommended them as great months to visit, even if they don’t bring the same life explosion as spring.

Summer is nice but can be hot and busy, and we rather spend it anywhere by the sea. Winter is wet and with limited activities, and not really recommended for a first-time visit.

As we started planning our Montenegro itinerary, we were adamant about spending the proper amount of time in Lake Skadar.

What we wanted to avoid, was rushing out from Kotor only to reach the lake at peak hour, crammed onto an overcrowded boat under the blazing sun.

While quick day trips have their place, it was the slow rhythm that made us really appreciate Lake Skadar. Taking time to wander, glide across the water in the early‑morning calm, sip local wine through lazy afternoons, and soak in the soft glow of sunset is what left us with such a great impression.

So, how long to spend at Lake Skadar? We recommend at least two nights, with a focus on morning (or sunset) boat trips. Independent travellers with their own car staying for that amount or longer, can also successfully divide their time between Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića for a better overview of the lake.

If you only have a day, we suggest that you head to Virpazar for a 10am (or earlier) boat trip and try to spend as much time on the water as you can.

Most travel blogs and other internet sources promote Virpazar as the only base existing in Lake Skadar.

From what we have seen, this is not true.

Unless you rely on public transport, there are several spots along the lake where you can base yourself, depending on the kind of experience you’re after.

Best for | Accessibility, convenience and extensive options for boat tours.

Cons | The village itself is not that pretty.

Virpazar is a small settlement in the Crmnica region, at the confluence of the Orahovštica and Crmnica rivers into Lake Skadar.

The name comes from Vir (whirlpool) and pazar (market), and it was an importan trading post for the region over the history. Today, it’s still a marketplace of sorts, but with an obvious focus on boat tours and wine tasting.

It’s also the most popular base for travellers, and we get it. It’s the easiest to reach, the only practical option if using public transport, and it provides the largest offering of boat tours.

This comes with the usual drawbacks though. Guided tours and day-trippers are abundant (especially in high season), and parking can be problematic.

Also, the village is not particularly “pretty”. It’s one of those places lined with kiosks on both sides of the road, with overenthusiastic vendors eagerly trying to sell you their tours.

It’s not all doom and gloom though. Visiting in spring means the crowds are manageable, and since you’ll likely spend half the day on a boat tour and the rest wandering nearby or wine tasting, you won’t be lingering in Virpazar much anyway.

Overall, if you want a straightforward, well-connected base with plenty of tour options, this is the place.

Here below you’ll find a few accommodation recommendations from us.

Hotel De’Andros | Where we stayed and the only real “luxury” option in town. We liked the prime position, onsite parking, restaurant and the rooftop bar and pool with great view over the lake. Note: The rooftop bar is operational in spring but the pool only starts functioning from June onwards.

Eco Resort Cermeniza | This resort has 13 beautiful villas, two swimming pools and it’s surrounded by vineyards, making it great for wine lovers. A bit outside Virpazar (20 min walk).

Lake Valley | Near Eco Resort Cermeniza, it offers a collection of stone chalets centred around an inviting swimming pool.

Panorama Stone Houses | Charming mountain retreat with the most spectacular view of Lake Skadar. More remote than other properties.

Best for | Photogenic location, fewer crowds, romantic stays, boat tours to northern section of the lake

Cons | Less accessible, boat tours could be more expensive

Rijeka Crnojevića is one of Montenegro’s most photogenic villages, set along a serene river that feeds into the lake. The iconic stone bridge, slow‑moving water, and surrounding hills create a postcard scene at every turn.

It’s quieter and more atmospheric than Virpazar, with a handful of restaurants and boat tours departing directly from the riverfront. It is a great place for those who want beauty and calm, without complete isolation.

Even if you’re staying in Virpazar, venturing here is still well worth it.

Here below you’ll find a few accommodation recommendations from us.

Hotel S Family Jovicevic | Simple but well‑located right on the river.

Casarogna Luxury Rooms | Modern and tasteful accommodation right in the centre.

Riječki grad Apartments | Another convenient option with great views over the village.

Best for | Solitude, swimming, nature immersion, off-the-grid travelling

Cons | Isolated, limited food / accommodation options

One step forward from Rijeka Crnojevića you’ll find Karuč, lake Skadar ultimate getaway for those seeking peace and quiet.

Once a seasonal village inhabited by fisherman, it has now turned into a tiny lakeside retreat for nature lovers. It has no shops and dining is limited to “reconverted family terraces”, but the tranquillity is unmatched.

For some it’s too remote, for others it’s Lake Skadar best hidden secret. Whether that fits your style, you’re the only one to know.

The access roads are narrow and demanding, and forget about staying here if you don’t have a car. But once you make it in, you’re rewarded with one of Lake Skadar’s most intimate, untouched corners.

Karuč Apartments | Simple lakeside rooms with amazing views.

Villa Skadar Lake | A beautifully restored stone house overlooking the water.

Skyline Skadar Lake | Modern, well-equipped house with a jacuzzi and unparallel views

Boat tours are undoubtedly one of the best things to do in lake Skadar.

Having taken boat trips from both Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića, we feel confident outlining the differences, pros, and cons of each.

Virpazar is the classic starting point, offering slow, scenic tours on traditional wooden boats. Routes are varied, birdwatching-focused trips are available, and prices are affordable.

Rijeka Crnojevića offers a completely different experience. Tours here use small speedboats and focus on the dramatic Crnojevića River, with bonus trips to Karuč or the “Amazon rainforest” section. They’re shorter, faster, and usually priced per boat.

If you can, try both. If you have to choose one, we feel that Virpazar is more relaxing and better for first‑timers, while Rijeka Crnojevića wins for scenery and a more adventurous feel.

This tour is a classic introduction to Lake Skadar and it has great reviews, while history buffs could opt for this instead.

To know | To visit lake Skadar by boat you’ll have to pay a €5 / person national park fee. This applies whether you depart from Virpazar or Rijeka Crnojevića, and if you visit on separate days, you’ll need to pay the fee each time.

Irrespective on whether you do a boat tour from Rijeka Crnojevića or not, one of the best reasons to visit the town is the proximity to Pavlova Strana, lake Skadar’s best viewpoint (here).

The drive from Rijeka Crnojevića is less than 10 minutes, but if you’re coming from Virpazar it will take about 1h via the panoramic route (we even spot tortoises!) or slightly less if going through Podgorica.

Pavlova Strana is Montenegro’s answer to the Horseshoe Bend in Arizona, except for the much lusher surroundings and the lower popularity, which makes things far more enjoyable. Once you arrive at the top of the viewpoint, you can simply admire the panorama, or if you want to stay longer, they have a restaurant (Konoba Ceklin) to take things to the next level. Although we can’t personally vouch for the food, we know that the view is to die for.

One of the cool things about Virpazar is the proximity to several wine estates. As you approach the village, you’ll spot signs pointing towards various hamlets known for their winemaking heritage.

Krnjice, Seoce, Boljevići, Limljani, Godinje.

By “villages” don’t expect lively town centres or busy streets. These are tiny clusters of crumbling stone houses perched on rocky outcrops overlooking small vineyards, with the lake in the distance. Places where the entire population might not exceed a hundred people even in summer.

Wine tasting in Lake Skadar is not the same as Napa Valley, Stellenbosch or Chianti, wonderful as these regions are. It’s a niche, yet incredibly relaxing and satisfying experience, emphasizing the “grannies’ secrets” of small producers over established expertise and expensive infrastructure.

You’ll taste wines from the local Vranac and Krstač grapes, but what elevates the experience is the setting. Nature all around, silence (except for the birds), and warm, attentive hosts who make you feel at home.

Our wine tasting took place in Godinje, just 5 kilometers from Virpazar via a narrow road.

We chose Winery Garnet (contacted in advance), which online was recommended as one of the best in the area. Note: There is no parking onsite, but you can park nearby here.

Tasting includes 4 glasses of wine (white, orange, rose and red) paired with cheese, cured ham, olive paste on homemade biscuits, salad as well as fruit liqueurs and rakia. At the time of visit (2026), the price was €40 / person or €20 just for wines and liqueurs.

If you prefer a more formal experience and don’t mind a bit of a drive, you can also check this.

Not a real “wine tasting”, but if you don’t want to move out of Virpazar, Besac Heritage Retreat has a wine museum and restaurant inside an historic fortress, with spectacular views on Lake Skadar!

This tiny lakeside hamlet was once a seasonal retreat for fisherman and it’s the definition of stillness. Tucked into the rocky shoreline, with wooden jetties and crumbling stone houses, its water are so calm it feels almost meditative.

There are no shops, cafés, and no real centre. Restaurants are primarily people’s terraces temporarily set up for the occasion. It’s perfect to disconnect completely, swim in the deep waters of Karučko Oko (The Eye of Karuč), and admire the stunning viewpoints. The access roads are tough, but if you’re willing to tackle the narrow bends, you’ll be rewarded with an intimate encounter with Lake Skadar’s untouched landscape.

Lake Skadar has a lot of peaceful swimming spots that feel worlds away from Montenegro’s busy Adriatic beaches.

While we don’t necessarily recommend going out of your way for those, they may be a valuable addition for slow travellers or anyone with time to spare.

Pješačac Beach (here) is one of the most accessible, with clear water and a relaxed vibe, while Murići Beach (here) offers a long stretch of shoreline backed by forest and views toward Albania. If you’re exploring by boat or car, you’ll find countless tiny coves where you can slip into the water completely alone.

As we travelled with our 2-year old little human, this was nowhere near baby-friendly.

However, for those exempt from parenting responsibilities, and who value sweat, labour and a touch of the unconventional as rewarding virtues, this will be their jam.

The beauty of it, is that you can closely mirror the boat routes at your own pace, or venture to the unexplored corners. Either way, you’ll likely to move between channels of reeds and oceans of lily pads, have close encounters with fluffy birds and enjoy spectacular views all over.

Virtually every tour company offers kayaks to rent, making things easy, with prices at about €5 per hour or €20-30 per day. If you’re interest in a paddle board, you can also reserve it here.

Two full days (and a car) set you on the right foot to explore Lake Skadar without the rush of a fully-managed day trip.

We describe below a sample 2-day itinerary using Virpazar as a base, but alternatively you could also choose Rijeka Crnojevića.

Kick-off your day in Virpazar, where you ideally arrived the night before, with a morning boat tour. Unless you’re really into birds, we suggest a start between 8-10am, choosing between the classic 2h or 3h (including Kom Monastery) tours.

After that, spend your time relaxing at your hotel before driving to Godinje while stopping at some of the great viewpoints along the way. You can then spend a lovely afternoon tasting wine at Winery Garnet, before wandering aimlessly in Godinje.

If you fancy, you can hit the nearby Pješačac beach as well, or head back to Virpazar stopping at Besac Heritage Retreat for a sunset drink and dinner with a spectacular view of the lake.

Accommodation | Hotel De’Andros

Boat Tour | Kingfisher or similar

Wine Tasting | Winery Garnet (Godinje)

Dinner | Besac Heritage Retreat

Take the panormic road from Virpazar to Rijeka Crnojevića (1h drive). Spend some time meandering through the idyillic small town before hopping on a boat to explore the Crnojevića river and the so-called Amazon rainforest.

As you get back to the town, a short drive will get you to Pavlova Strana, Lake Skadar best viewpoint, where you can eat at the local restaurant.

Drive further to Karuč to get another very picturesque view of Lake Skadar, before heading back to Virpazar or leave the lake entirely.

Boat Tour | Any from Rijeka Crnojevića

Highlights | Pavlova Strana, Karuč

Plan boat tours for early morning or sunset. Early departures also mean fewer boats, better birdwatching, and cooler temperatures.

Choose your base according to your travel style. Virpazar is convenient and practical, especially for boat tours and public transport. Rijeka Crnojevića is more atmospheric and romantic. Karuč is for travellers seeking solitude and nature immersion.

Book wine tastings in advance. Most wineries are tiny family operations, so a quick message or call helps ensure someone is available to host you. This is especially useful outside peak season, as many owners live in Podgorica.

Drive carefully on panoramic roads. The scenic routes around the lake are stunning but narrow, winding, and poorly maintained. Take your time, avoid rushing, and be prepared to stop for tortoises crossing the road!

Bring cash. Many small wineries, local restaurants, and boat operators prefer cash payments. ATMs are limited once you leave Virpazar.

Expect simplicity and embrace it. Lake Skadar isn’t polished or curated. Villages are tiny, restaurants are often family terraces, and tours feel homemade.

Lake Skadar Boat Tours: Virpazar vs Rijeka Crnojevića

The post Lake Skadar Travel Guide: The Ultimate Montenegro Hidden Gem appeared first on The Way We Travel.

We visited Bergen in May as part of a 6-day trip in Western Norway. While we stayed for a short time, mainly as a gateway to the fjords, we immediately fell in love with the town.

Admittedly, the sunny weather skewed our view, because in one of Europe’s rainiest cities, sunshine usually feels like a mirage. But the village feel, the wooden houses, cobblestones streets and its incredibly photogenic appearance, definitely made up for it.

Here below, you can find our very personal list of things to see and do in Bergen in a day, alongside other practical tips to make your trip perfect.

In our opinion, Bergen is a must-see if you are coming to Norway. This is easily the prettiest town in Norway and one of the most charming in the whole of Scandinavia.

The “city of seven mountains” (just as Rome is known as the “city of seven hills”) is a town that offers a bit of everything, perfect whether you love history and culture or prefer nature, with endless hikes right on its doorstep. It really feels like the best of both worlds!

Plus, it’s known as the “gateway to the fjords”, and you can tap into the spectacular Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord in just a few hours drive.

You can read about our 6-day road trip adventure to the fjords here.

Bergen international airport is conveniently located just 18km south of the city.

The airport has 36 direct routes from multiple European cities and it is served by multiple budget airlines as well as flag-carriers. If you are travelling from further away, chances are that you’ll pass through Oslo, before catching a domestic flight to Bergen.

You can check flight availability and prices on Skyscanner.

To reach the city centre from the airport, you can then either take the Airport Bus (30min at NOK 169 online), the Light Rail (45min at NOK 49), or taxi.

We flew with Norwegian from London (May) and hired a car at the airport to reach the city centre.

If you are travelling from Oslo, you can consider taking the train. The journey is a long-ish one (about 7h) but you can also choose to do it overnight.

We don’t have a direct experience, but some of our friends took the train and really enjoyed the comfort and the beautiful views! This could also be a nice option if you are travelling with a small baby. Prices may vary, but factor about NOK 800 for a one-way trip.

If you are on the Sognefjord, you could also get to Bergen from Flåm. Combine the journey with “the most beautiful train ride” by taking the Flåmsbana to Myrdal, before taking the train to Bergen.

There are multiple other options based on where you are travelling from, such as bus or boat.

Come between May and September for warmer days and prolonged daylight, but pack a rain jacket. This is Norway after all, and it can rain…a lot!

Nordnes peninsula, Bergen, on a miraculously sunny day in May

Dedicating only a day to discover Bergen is a real pity. Having said that, the town is very compact and you can probably nail most of the key attractions in 1 day if needed. We had one late afternoon for a first impression and nearly a full day after to explore further.

Dedicating it 2–3 days is ideal, though we understand you may want to spend more time exploring the rest of the country.

True to our slow-travel style, we recommend not overpacking your itinerary when time is limited. Yes, Bryggen is a must and Mount Fløyen is a great nature escape, minutes away from the city.

But apart from that, we would rather spend time getting lost in the super cute streets, exploring the cozy cafes and chilling.

Scroll further down for our personal list of what you can’t miss!

If coming for short time, the city centre is the most logical place to stay.

This will allow you to reach all the relevant points of interest on foot. Consider staying as close to Vågen Harbour as possible for a simple reason: Bergen is mostly flat around the waterfront, but may become surprisingly steep as soon as you move away from it.

Many of the streets climbing up from both sides of the harbour are basically vertical, and tackling them daily, especially with luggage, can quickly become a pain.

Staying near the harbour makes getting around easier and keeps most attractions, restaurants, and transport links within a comfortable walk.

Here some options to consider:

• Det Hanseatiske Hotel: Boutique Hotel in a historic wooden house just outside Bryggen Harbour
• Home Hotel Havnekontoret: Imposing architecture and beautiful interiors right by the harbour
• Bergen Børs Hotel: Superb interiors and spacious rooms right in the city centre

Yes it’s touristy and cliché, but there is no doubt that the old wharf of Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is Bergen’s most iconic attraction.

The place is extremely photogenic and aside from the inevitable photo stop from the opposite side of the harbour, it is worth meandering through the little alleys in between the wooden warehouse buildings, as well as learning more about its history.

Today, Bryggen is a mix of the old buildings from 1703 and newer ones rebuilt after the fire of 1955. The original purpose as a stockfish trading point has been replaced by small arts and crafts as well as restaurants and touristy shops.

Beyond the front façade, you can still feel the spirit of the Hanseatic league, which ruled the place for hundreds of years. We really enjoyed the old Nordic vibe inside Bryggen and you could really imagine what the place was like 700 years ago, with drunken sailors fighting each other in the darkness under the dim light of a small lantern (apparently the place wasn’t exactly safe during the Hanseatic period).

If going in high season, we recommend to go early in the morning to avoid the big crowds. We visited around 10am in May and it wasn’t too crowded, but we can imagine it gets much busier in summer.

Next to Bryggen, sits the Hanseatic Museum covering the history of the Hanseatic League time in Bergen.

We didn’t manage to get inside the museum as it was temporarily closed for renovation at the time. However, it pairs perfectly with Bryggen, offering a deeper look into Hanseatic life over 400 years. The ticket also includes a visit to Schøtstuene nearby, the last Hanseatic assembly rooms in the world, where merchants used to cook, eat and discuss business.

You can learn more about the Hanseatic Museum and reserve a ticket here.

Just a few meters away from Bryggen, you can’t really miss the fish market.

Been in existence since the 1200s, this is where the town’s fishing culture is in display.

Beyond the ubiquitous Norwegian salmon, we discovered plenty of local fish, meat, and produce, and while tourism has softened the authenticity of the place, you can still find real tasty delicacies if you look a little deeper. And our salmon sandwich was undoubtedly very tasty!

We also loved the cured reindeer and moose sausages (look for 60%+ content to avoid having a pork sausage with an off taste), and quickly became obsessed with the sweet-savoury pairing of cheese and cloudberry jam (indigenous to the Scandinavian countries).

If you want a Norwegian-style reindeer hot dog, Trekroneren (just behind the Fish Market) is the place to go.

We usually avoid packing too many must-dos, since half the joy comes from simply wandering a town’s lively streets.

However, being only a few steps from Bryggen, the Bergenhus Fortress could be a natural extension of your exploration, and worth paying a visit if you are into it.

One of Norway’s oldest stone fortifications it includes buildings from 1200s as well as modern constructions from the 1900s. Of notable importance is the Rosenkrantz Tower, home to one of Norway’s most significant kings (Magnus Lawmender), in the 1200s.

You can find more information here.

St. Mary’s Church is also conveniently placed behind Bryggen, making it an easy stop without going out of your way.

Built between 1130 and 1170, it has been in continuous use since early medieval period. It has been restored multiple times, the most recent one concluded in 2015.

Hop into the Fløibanen funicular to get to the top of Mount Fløyen.

You can book ahead for peace of mind, but we bought our tickets on the spot with hardly any queue.

Apart from the great views, we really enjoyed the fact that you are basically in the wild just after a 6-min journey.

There are nice and easy nature walks that you can do (e.g. to the Granbakken lake nearby), which is amazing considering that you are so close to the city centre!

The immediate area at the top is also very family-friendly and a great place to be if you have small children (an easy zipline, a trolls path and other amenities are all just minutes away).

Best way to digest Norway’s entire production of salmon is to keep walking. Even better uphill!

The whole Vågsbunnen district area is an attractive mix of wooden houses, art nouveau-style buildings, cozy cafes (we enjoyed a stopover at Café Vågal) and tiny streets that are very charming.

Our favourite part was actually the area in the immediate vicinity, with all the residential streets behind the Fløibanen funicular.

The area is less polished then Vågsbunnen but in our opinion more authentic. A perfect mix of quiet and ultra-cute cobblestones streets, with the signature wooden houses, mixed with Mediterranean’s urbanistic inefficiencies (think about broken stairs, and semi-dilapidated walls). Getting there means a bit of a climb, but hey, no pain no gain!

Nestled within the vibrant city centre, Østre Murallmenningen is a picturesque winding street flanked by colourful buildings. It felt like Bergen’s answer to San Francisco’s Lombard Street, perfect for snapping pretty photos and to simply wander over a lesser-known corner of town.

Going uphill you find the Nordnes Peninsula, one of Bergen’s hidden gems. Located in the centre, it is often overlooked by people dedicating all their time to Bryggen and immediate surroundings.

Spend some time soaking up the peaceful atmosphere, strolling along the super cute cobblestone streets filled with charming wooden buildings and enjoying wonderful panoramic views over Bergen.

If you have more time, add these other attractions to get to know the neighbourhood better:

• Nordnesparken: Pretty park overlooking the sea
• Nordnes Sjøbad: Heated swimming pool and sauna set right along the water
• Bergen Aquarium: Great option for a family outing

• Mostraumen Fjord Tour: Beautiful half-a-day trip along the Osterfjord and one of Bergen’s most popular excursions.
• Fantoft Stave Church: Replica of a typical Norwegian stave church from the 1150. Worth it if you can’t visit the ancient stave churches (Borgund, Urnes) along the Sognefjord.
• KODE Art Museum: One of Norway’s best galleries across 4 different buildings. Visit the “Rasmus Meyer” building for notable works by Edvard Munch and the Norwegian Golden Age painters.
• Edvard Grieg’s home at Troldhaugen: Technically part of KODE, this house museum overlooking the Nordås Lake, belonged to Bergen’s most famous composer. A museum since 1928, it includes Grieg’s villa, his composing hut, gravesites and a concert hall.
• Bergen Maritime Museum: One of Norway’s oldest specialized museums, focusing on shipping and its importance for Bergen throughout history.
• Go hiking: The city of seven mountains offers multiple opportunities for hikers. At 647m, Ulriken is the tallest of the seven peaks (you can hike up or take the cable car) and offers excellent views of Bergen. Damsgårdsfjellet is another excellent, although moderately challenging, hike offering incredible views.
• Day Trip Cabins: Fancy the great outdoors without strenuous hikes? Take a trip to one of the many “Dagsturhytta” (day trip cabins). The hikes are generally short and easy and many of the paths are accessible to people with prams or wheelchairs. Once at destination, relax in a modern, scandi-style cabin (you can’t stay overnight here and you might have to share the facilities with other groups) and enjoy the surrounding nature!
• Visit Gamle Bergen: Open-air museum boasting 55 wooden houses from various historical period and people in traditional costumes.
• Venture to the Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord: Embark on a multi-day road trip along some of the most spectacular natural landscapes.

Is Bergen worth visiting for a day? Absolutely!

Norway’s second largest city is undeniably beautiful, and even just a short visit is time well spent.

If you have more time, slow down your pace, do a fjord tour and seek out some of Bergen’s lesser-known corners.

But even with just one day, you can still grasp the city’s character and feel its soul. Bryggen and Mount Fløyen are essential, but in our opinion Bergen is best experienced through its daily life.

Meander its charming residential streets and pause to admire its sweeping panoramas. Warm-up in a cozy cafe, sample local delicacies, or time your visit with one of the many cultural events, such as Nattjazz or the Bergen International Festival.

This is not a place for ticking boxes but one to truly experience, whether you’re stopping by for a single day or lingering longer.

The post Ultimate One-Day Guide to Bergen: Best Things to See & Do appeared first on The Way We Travel.

Sheer cliffs plunging into emerald water, countless waterfalls, and remote farming hamlets make this one of Norway’s most iconic experiences. In this guide, we share everything you need — schedules, prices, the best operators, and our own experience, so you can plan your Flåm to Gudvangen Fjord Cruise with confidence.

Norway’s Best from Flam to Gudvangen – vessel plying across the Aurlandsfjord during our fjord cruise.

The Flåm to Gudvangen ferry starts in either of those villages and cruises between the Aurlandsfjord and the Nærøyfjord. It takes approximately two hours one way, and for the return you could do the following:

• Buy a return ticket in the opposite direction (longest and most expensive option)
• Take the shuttle back to Flåm (most popular option)

The shuttle and ferry are timed for a smooth round trip, with the bus departing 15min after the cruise ends. However, you can also mix and match different departure times between the cruise and the shuttle. This gives you great flexibility to relax, take photos or visit cool attractions such as the Viking Village in Gudvangen. 

We spent a few hours in Gudvangen after the cruise and felt that it was the right choice.

There are two main providers offering the Flåm to Gudvangen fjord cruise:

• Norway’s Best offering modern, fully electrical vessels, designed to maximize sightseeing in a very tranquil and noise-free environment. This is the go-to option for most people, and the only one available if you travel in winter (although a special ice route is operated due to risk of freezing in the innermost part of the Nærøyfjord). They also offer a package including the return on the shuttle bus, which you can book here. Most people start their journey in Flåm (or Gudvangen), but alternatively you can also board in Aurland (although it may be complicated on the way back, as the shuttle only stops in Flåm). You can also reserve intermediate stops (such as the cute little village of Undredal), if interested.
• Lustrabaatane with their classic-design ferries, representing the slightly cheaper option. Their ferries are only available from mid-April to mid-October and are only fully operational between June and August.

The cost of a one-way ticket at the time of writing (2026) is NOK 665 (~$65) for Norway’s Best and NOK 550 (~$54) for Lustrabaatane.

Both operators offer excellent, small-scale fjord cruises that feel intimate and personal. This is far removed from the big crowds and atmosphere of gigantic cruise ships, which you will see docked at Flåm’s harbour.

In our opinion, Norway’s Best represents the most attractive option, especially considering that the price difference is only marginal. However, Lustrabaatane is a valid alternative if the other is fully booked or if you prefer their slightly different timetable.

Lustrabaatane also operates a car ferry between Gudvangen and Kaupanger in summer. In that way, you can effectively cruise the Nærøyfjord (but not the Aurlandsfjord) through a different route.

There is a valid reason why winter in the Western fjords is not the best time to go. Seeing the Northern Lights is unlikely, a lot of panoramic roads are closed and the bad weather is real. Doing the Nærøyfjord Fjord Cruise is doable, but availability is more limited (Norway’s Best is the only provider) and weather-related cancellations are more frequent.

You’ll find decent (Norwegian) weather in summer but at the expense of big crowds, especially in Flåm due to heavy cruise traffic.

The shoulder seasons (late May/June or September/early October) are the nice sweet spot. We really enjoyed our trip in late May and we had good weather (with passing showers) and no big crowds (except maybe in Flåm). Also, most of the key activities/attractions were open and did not require significant pre-booking, including the fjord cruise.

We booked with Norway’s Best (Flåm to Gudvangen) in May only a day before the cruise. This was ideal for flexibility and it meant that we could choose the date based on the weather (check in advance if travelling in high season!).

We started our journey in Flåm, a pretty place except for the view of a gigantic cruise ship, almost the size of the village. Fearing sardine mode, we were pleasantly surprised by how few people were on board our boat instead!

The cruise is relaxing and you can appreciate the landscape at a slow pace and in complete silence. There are screens inside the ferry describing the scenery, but we preferred to enjoy the journey without unnecessary use of technology.

The Aurlandsfjord is very dramatic especially near Undredal, a tiny village known for goat cheese and Norway’s smallest stave church. But it is once turning towards the Nærøyfjord, the only UNESCO-listed fjord together with Geirangerfjord, that the landscape becomes otherworldly. The fjord gets narrower and the vertical cliffs dotted with waterfalls and snowy peaks, make you feel incredibly small. The occasional human settlement, especially around Bakka, further adds a sense of scale that leaves you completely in awe. The Nærøyfjord is at its narrowest here, just 250m wide, with cliffs raising over 1,000 meters high. We were treated to a mix of sunshine and menacing clouds, and spotting killer whales along the way made the experience even more unforgettable!

Once in Gudvangen, we spent a few hours exploring Njardarheimr, an immersive Viking village that brings the past to life, with archery and axe throwing making you feel like Thor.

The word fjord is a typical Norwegian invention. The origin goes way back to the Viking’s Age (fjǫrðr in Old Norse language) and indicates a lake-like body of water used for passage of boats. Today, it’s used to indicate a long and narrow sea inlet carved by glaciers with steep cliffs at each sides.

Tucked away in the middle of Fjord Norway lays the Sognefjord, the biggest and most famous fjord in the country. Conveniently located near Bergen, it’s a must for anyone looking to explore the best of nature beyond the city.

We have visited this area during our 6-day fjord trip from Bergen and included multiple incredible places along the Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord.

If you prefer the comfort of an organized tour, the popular Norway in a Nutshell is a great option, offering a taste of the country’s highlights, including a cruise between Flåm and Gudvangen. In addition to the above, there are countless (especially in summer) fjord tours and cruises whether you are starting your trip in Bergen, Voss or other nearby places.

You can find more information regarding fjord tours here.

Stretching over 200 km, the Sognefjord is Norway’s longest, and the second‑longest fjord in the world. Its sheer size can make planning confusing, but the rule is simple: the further inland you go, the narrower and more dramatic the scenery becomes.

The real highlights are actually its side branches, especially the Aurlandsfjord and the Nærøyfjord, the true jewels of the region.

The two beautiful branches resemble the shape of Lake Como on a map, but the atmosphere couldn’t be more different. Forget the glitz and glamour – here it’s all about majestic landscapes where silence speaks louder than words.

Often referred as the “Grand Canyon” of Norway, the 29-kilometer long Aurlandsfjord is one of Norway’s most beautiful fjords.

Sitting at the innermost part of the fjord, there is the world-famous village of Flåm. While we do not necessarily recommend staying in Flåm (nearby Aurland is the better choice for a crowd-free experience), it is worth paying it a visit as it represents a strategic point to visit the area. Also, it’s the starting point for the Fjord cruise connecting Flam (on Aurlandsfjord) to Gudvangen (on the Nærøyfjord).

There are multiple places worth exploring on the Aurlandsfjord including the Stegastein viewpoint, the remote village of Undredal and the Otternes farmyard, a cluster of 27 old buildings and barns from the 1700s overlooking the fjord from above. You can look at our road trip for more inspiration on how to get the best out of this area!

The Nærøyfjord stretches from the Aurlandsfjord forming a reverse Y shape water basin flanked by majestic cliffs.

About 18 km long, it is the wildest and most dramatic arm of the Sognefjord. With 1,000-meter peaks and a fjord just 250 meters wide at its narrowest point, it looks visually striking. Nestled in between the mountains, the tiny village of Gudvangen sits at the end of the fjord, a popular place to spend your time feeling like a true Viking. We even did some archery and axe throwing, while surrounded by Ragnar Lothbrok and the likes, which was pretty cool!

Is the fjord cruise on your bucket list? Drop us a line and we would be happy to help you!

The post Flam to Gudvangen: Ferry & Cruise Schedule, Prices and Best Options appeared first on The Way We Travel.

Norway is one of our favourite countries in the world. There is something about its majestic nature that is guaranteed to leave you in awe.

Since our first impromptu trip to the Lofoten, we pledged to go back and visit more of the country. While we fell in love with the Lofoten’s arctic landscape, the romantic fisherman’s cabins (or rorbu) and even the exhilarating winter weather, this time we decided to head south to see the majestic fjords.

Our trip objective was essentially to:

• Immerse ourselves in nature but without strenuous activities / treks
• Check off some must-see places while discovering hidden gems
• Have relatively easy access to the main points of interest

We satisfied all those criteria in our six-day trip, but in the hindsight we would have spread the journey further, to enjoy it at a more leisured pace with our six-month old son.

This on-the-road, Norway fjords itinerary represents a sensible plan for those using Bergen as a starting point. It is designed to be a suitable guide whether you are travelling as a family, as a couple or solo. It is also meant to provide you with a balanced experience, including adventure, culture, food and other enjoyable activities.

For each destination, you will find our personal recommendations, insider tips and practical information to sort the logistics. If something is not covered, leave a comment and we would be happy to help you organize your perfect trip!

Beautiful fjords and dramatic scenery are present all over the country. We fondly remember our visit to Nusfjord in the Lofoten, and loved our stay at the Nusfjord Arctic Resort. However, the “typical” Norwegian fjords are a specific geographical area in Western Norway spanning across 3 different counties:

• Møre og Romsdal, with Ålesund as the largest town
• Vestland, with Bergen as the largest town
• Rogaland, with Stavanger as the largest town

If you come from abroad, you’ll most likely have to fly to one of these towns as your starting point.

Generally speaking, Bergen tends to have more opportunities for direct flights (especially from Europe), followed by Stavanger and then Ålesund.

If flying from further away, you’ll probably stop in Oslo, before a domestic flight to one of these towns.

Bergen is the self-proclaimed “Gateway to the Fjords” although Stavanger and Ålesund are closer to their respective fjord systems.

The difference is not huge, so it mainly depends on the fjord systems you want to visit.

We decided to fly to Bergen to start our trip and did not regret it. We loved the city, its location, the well-preserved wooden houses and cobblestones alleys, and find it to be a great choice if you want to have nature at your doorstep while not disregarding city life.

Many people start planning a trip to Norway thinking they could see the country in a week. Even restricting yourself to Western Norway and the fjords area, it will take a long time to visit it properly.

Our Norway fjords itinerary started in Bergen and touched on various spots along the Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord. We haven’t done any specialty activities such as long treks, kayaking, water rafting or similar. If these are of interest, we recommend that you will add a few extra days to fit them in. In hindsight, we had 5 effective days (excluding travelling) and they were ok if visiting as a couple or solo, but a bit rushed when you have an infant. Irrespectively, we recommend using extra days to slow your pace rather than cramming too much in too little time.

We strongly recommend to stick with 1-2 main fjord areas unless having a minimum of two weeks at your disposal. You’ll see beauty everywhere, and don’t really need to drive around like a salesman for the sake of ticking boxes.

The different areas are also relatively similar, despite a few unique distinctions. Each has its own must-see and hidden gems, but travelling between them eats up a lot of time.

The Lysefjord outside Stavanger has the Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) and Kjerag. The Hardangerfjord and Sognefjord outside Bergen have Trolltunga, the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord branch and the stave churches, while Ålesund gives access to the world-famous and spectacular Geirangerfjord. On top of that, there will be many waterfalls, awe-inspiring vistas, glaciers, and trekking opportunities in most of the areas.

If you start your Norway fjords itinerary from Bergen, concentrate your itinerary around Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord.

Unlike Lofoten, there is a valid reason why winter in the Western fjords is not the best time to go. Seeing the Northern Lights is unlikely, a lot of panoramic roads are closed and the bad weather is real.

Summer has decent (Norwegian) weather but is often overcrowded, especially around Flåm and Geiranger due to heavy cruise traffic.

The shoulder seasons (late May/June or September/early October) are the nice sweet spot.

We really enjoyed our trip in late May. We had good weather (with passing showers) and no big crowds (except maybe in Flåm). Also, most of the key activities/attractions were open and did not require significant pre-booking.

However, certain attractions are highly seasonal and it’s worth checking whether these are open if travelling outside peak season. For example, we wanted to drive the Aurlandsfjellet Scenic Route, to later discover that it was opening on June 1^st. As these and other attractions are highly dependent on the weather, we recommend to check them in advance and plan your trip accordingly, if you decide to include them in your itinerary. You can find more information on the roads status and accessibility here.

For maximum flexibility, hiring a car is the best option to see most of the places at your own pace. The roads are generally very good and traffic is almost non-existent.

If you drive from Europe, Fjord Line operates ferries from Hirtshals (Denmark) to Bergen and Risavika (near Stavanger), where you can start your trip.

We hired a car at Bergen airport two months in advance through Booking.com, and spent NOK 7560 including full insurance. Bear in mind that you‘ll have to pay toll charges for certain roads, including the E16 from Bergen to Flåm. If you hire a car, these will be automatically deducted from your deposit (we paid NOK 425 for 5 days).  A few other roads are instead private (like the scenic Tindevegen road), and payment is processed separately.

Bus, train or ferry are also available depending on which fjord you want to visit. They all stop in key hubs but you need a combination of these and/or private tours to maximise exploration. If you prefer joining a tour, the popular Norway in a Nutshell or Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell represent the easiest way to get a taste of the region, with all the pros and cons of organized tours.

The fjords are huge and it could be a bit overwhelming to decide where to stay.

We recommend to stay in a scenic area, strategically close to many attractions, but to avoid the main cruise ports.

We loved Aurland, a tiny village on the Sognefjord, at only 10min driving from Flåm but without the massive crowds. Gudvangen could be another option if you like to feel like a Viking, although the accommodation offer is more limited. These places provide good access to the Southern (and most popular) section of the Sognefjord, at only 2:30h from Bergen. If you prefer staying north, the village of Balestrand is also a great option.

Some Sognefjord accommodation options include:

• Wangen Apartments – Scandi style with fjord and floating sauna at your doorstep
• Aurland 29/2 – Stylish boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant in the heart of the valley
• Kviknes Hotel – Piece of history in Balestrand

The villages of Eidfjord and Ulvik are a good base to visit the Hardangerfjord. However, we preferred to stay in Lofthus due to the great combination of beauty, accessibility and hospitality options. Also, in our opinion, Lofthus is located on the prettiest part of the Hardangerfjord, with spectacular views of the Folgefonna glacier in front and idyllic orchards at your back.

Best accommodation option:

• Ullensvang Hotel –  Historical hotel with the best spa selection in spectacular location.

Bergen is a lovely town, the prettiest we have seen in Norway and one of our favourite in Scandinavia.

We started our trip in late May, benefiting from extended daylight and blessed by proper sunshine on our arrival. We landed just before 5pm, took our pre-booked car and after a short 20min drive, we arrived at our hotel.

The first day is all about settling-in and have an initial feel for the place. The good news is that, if visiting in summer or late spring, the prolonged daylight plays in your favour and you will end up stretching towards the late evening without even realizing it.

After check-in, we had dinner and a leisure stroll, without renouncing to the classic photo of Bryggen from the harbour.

We climbed the pretty Østre Murallmenningen (the Norwegian answer to San Francisco’s Lombard street), and explored the surroundings, before we called it a day.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS – Bryggen view from harbour

ACCOMMODATION – Magic Hotel Apartments Kløverhuset (or any other suitable accommodation close to the Vågen Harbour)

Second day is all about exploring the city centre before venturing into the Sognefjord. As this blog post is about the fjords experience, we will focus on this topic rather than Bergen.

For more information, you can read our Bergen guide for great tips of how to make the most of it, without venturing too much inland.

After spending most of the day exploring the town, we headed to our car at 5pm, put the baby to sleep (not an easy task) and we were ready to go!

We started our Norway fjords itinerary after heading out of Bergen in the afternoon. The estimated journey time was 2:40h, but the trip becomes interesting soon after leaving the city. You probably want to pull over every 5min for the best photo of the century, but realistically your first useful stop is the village of Vossevangen (or Voss).

Voss is a village of 7,000 inhabitants, basically a metropolis compared to the other ones in the Sognefjord. Many sources online propose Voss as a base to explore the region, strategically located between the Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord. The reality is that it is far from both, and residing here would involve significant driving back and forth. Unless you are an adrenaline-junkie (Voss is the extreme sport capital of Norway), we think you should stay closer to the fjords.

We skipped Voss and instead stopped at the beautiful Tvindefossen waterfall, only 15min after. The waterfall is easily reachable and directly accessible from the road, so that you don’t have to divert your journey. We got there around 7pm (still plenty of daylight) and felt privileged to be the only people around.

Leaving Tvindefossen, the landscape gets even more beautiful culminating in the spectacular Nærøydalen Valley, best observed from the Stalheim Hotel. A stopover here is an absolute must and one of the highlights of a trip to Western Norway.

Our cunning plan was to arrive at dinner time, for the magic combo of spectacular view plus satisfied stomach, but we had to contain our expectations as the restaurant was fully booked. If you’re coming here in the evening, we recommend booking the restaurant to avoid a last minute disappointment. Nevertheless the views were fantastic and what we really came here for!

Note: Stalheim Hotel is currently closed and set to re-open in May 2026.

We then drove to Flåm (30min), ate at the Viking-inspired Ægir BrewPub and after 10min reached our accommodation in Aurland.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS – Tvindefossen, Stalheim Hotel View

ACCOMMODATION – Wangen Apartments Hotel (Aurland)

Straight after breakfast, we headed for the Stegastein viewpoint.

The scenic journey is 20min by car and there is a small parking lot by the viewpoint, making it convenient. The place is not unnoticed and you’ll see plenty of tour buses, but if driving your own car you have the luxury to wait for the crowds to leave before enjoying the place on your terms. This was supposed to be one of the highlights of our trip and it did not disappoint. We recommend that you include it in your itinerary, given the spectacular view over the Aurlandsfjord and the easy access.

At this point, we wanted to continue upwards through the Aurlandsfjellet, one the National Scenic Routes famous for its imposing snow walls flanking the road and the untouched alpine landscape, but found out that the road was closed.

After the gruelling experience of driving through the longest tunnel in the world, we took the old King’s Road and in about 30min we arrived to Borgund Stave Church.

Built around 1180, this is the best-preserved wooden church of its kind and one of the “key attractions” here. We were completely alone as tour buses tend to come and go, and could thoroughly appreciate the enchanted atmosphere of the place.

Coming back towards the Sognefjord, the first attempt to find a human settlement is in the village of Lærdalsøyri. As finding a lunch spot in the area between Aurland, Borgund and Lærdalsøyri is already a great achievement, our advice is to:

• Either pack your own lunch
• Or settle for any sort of café / takeaway that you can find

We opted for the latter and ate at an unassuming café in Lærdalsøyri. The village has a different vibe compared to what we have seen around here. The atmosphere was eerie, partly influenced by the gloomy weather and by the numerous old wooden buildings around the village. The result is an interesting mix of wild-west vibe and border village architecture with a Nordic flair, which is worth checking out for a quick stop.

Our journey at this point should have continued North, with stops at the Kaupanger and Urnes Stave Churches before coming back via the scenic Tindevegen. However, our six-month old baby disagreed with our plan and vocally expressed that he had enough for the day.

We decided to go back to Aurland to have a relaxing stroll around the village. We also went to the Aurland Floating Sauna (alternating between the two of us) and we were so glad that we did! Originally only available in Flåm, it is such a great addition to have this in Aurland too. If you haven’t done a Scandi-style sauna before, you should definitely check this out.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS – Stegastein, Borgund Stave Church

ACCOMMODATION – Wangen Apartments Hotel (Aurland)

Day 4 was a much more relaxing day considering that strenuous driving was minimal and the visual experience was maximal.

If you only do one thing in your Norway fjords itinerary, make it the cruise between Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord, two of the most beautiful branches of the Sognefjord. This is an absolute must for anyone visiting the area and one of the highlights of our trip.

Starting in Flåm, you’ll cruise the Aurlandsfjord, but it is when turning towards the Nærøyfjord that the landscape becomes otherworldly. The fjords gets progressively narrower and the parallel cliffs dotted with ever-present waterfalls and snowy peaks, will leave you speechless.

Once arrived in Gudvangen, we suggest spending a few hours soaking up the incredible atmosphere of the place. Pay a visit to Njardarheimr, an authentic “Viking village” showing daily life from 1,000 years ago. You can have a guided tour and above all, doing archery and axe throwing will make you feel like Thor.

Back to Flåm, we had lunch at Ægir (we were in full Viking-mode by this time) and relaxed.

We were then conflicted on whether going to Undredal for goat cheese tasting or explore the Flåm Valley towards Myrdal. We opted for the latter, which you can reach in various ways:

• Taking the Flåmsbana train from Flåm to Myrdal, which you can reserve here (best for relaxing)
• Driving along the route yourself (best for flexibility and to save the cost of the train ticket if you already have your own car)

The drive across the Flåm Valley to Myrdal is beautiful, and while not arriving up to Myrdal itself, it shares a large portion of the Flåmsbana route, the self-proclaimed “most beautiful train ride in the world”. You’ll notice a different landscape compared to the usual fjord-type scenery, which reminded us of Switzerland with a Nordic vibe. There are various beautiful spots deserving a photo stop including the Flåm Kyrkje, the Rjoandefossen waterfall, the Cave waterfall, and multiple others.

While narrow, the road is manageable and paved for large part of the drive, while becoming corrugated closer to Myrdal. This is also where you have the Flåm Zipline, although we obviously couldn’t do it with our baby.

On the way back, we stopped at 29|2 Aurland for dinner. If you are a foodie and enjoy good dining experiences, this should be on your radar.

We loved our fjord trip, but we soon realized that having a great, and perhaps more upscale, dinner is somewhat of a challenge here, so we were so glad that we found this hidden gem.

The food is organic, extremely fresh and locally sourced (or produced) as you would expect from these kind of places, a testament to their proud fjord-to-fork mantra. The dishes are refined without being pretentious, emphasizing the exceptional quality of the ingredients and promoting the region’s cultural heritage. An extension of the farm’s historic smokehouse, the yard has been recently transformed into a beautiful dining room, the perfect place for a romantic dinner in a spectacular natural setting.

But it is the whole package that you get out of here that is the real deal. All guests at this small boutique hotel gather to the restaurant at the same time (usually 7PM), because you are not simply going out for dinner but you are rather invited to discover Tone and Bjørn’s world. You will hear stories from the owners about the history of the place, look at old family photos by relaxing in front of a warm fireplace, learn about the origin of the food on your table, invited to have a tour of the vegetable garden and the animal farm.

We didn’t have the direct experience of staying at 29|2, but the place looks amazing and in line with the family’s guiding principles and their incredible hospitality. Even if you don’t stay here, book a dinner as you won’t regret it.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS – Nærøyfjord cruise, 29|2 Aurland

ACCOMMODATION – Wangen Apartments Hotel (Aurland)

After leaving the mighty Sognefjord, we were ready to explore the Hardangerfjord.

Driving from Aurland to the Hardanger bridge takes approximately 1:30h taking the E16 via Voss. A panoramic drive skirting around the edge of the fjord shortly brings you to the village of Eidfjord, offering spectacular vistas of steep mountains dropping into the sea.

We had lunch at the Vøringsfoss Hotel by the Eidfjord pier, before heading towards Vøringsfossen, the country’s most famous waterfall! The drive takes about 20min, where we parked next to the Fossli Hotel for the top view. The best period to visit Vøringsfossen is between May to October given that the waterfall is partially or entirely frozen in winter time, and driving up to the viewpoint is not safe.

The waterfall itself is certainly scenic with its 182m plunge from the Hardangervidda plateau, but the canyon view is the real deal! There are various platforms and walking paths that allow you to enjoy the views from multiple angles. If you are into hiking it is also possible to reach the waterfall from the bottom of the valley following the hiking trail.

Coming back from Vøringsfossen, we reached the beautiful Ullensvang Hotel in Lofthus in about 1h. The hotel sits by the banks of the Sørfjorden, the innermost branch of the Hardangerfjord and in our opinion the most scenic one.

The scenery here makes the Hardangerfjord a unique place. While you notice more human intervention compared to the untamed sections of the Sognefjord, it’s complementary to the surrounding landscape. Beautiful orchards scattered all over the steep valley, which together with plunging waterfalls and a stunning backdrop of snow capped mountains on the other side of the fjord, evoke a strong sense of peace and lyrical beauty. For us, it was like having the South African Winelands meeting Fjord Norway, with cider tasting taking place of wine!

May is a great period to visit Hardanger, as all the fruit trees are in bloom, which make the area particularly stunning! Unfortunately, we were not lucky in that respect, as Norway had experienced an unusual heatwave in April which moved the blossoming earlier in the month, but the area was beautiful regardless.

After settling in, we started our cider tour which was conveniently organized by our hotel. While not being connoisseurs by any means, we appreciated the quality of the cider at Opedalstunet. This family-run farm offers an intimate yet hands-on experience, including a guided tour in the orchard and indoor cider tasting in a newly renovated, scandi-style room.

We spent the rest of the evening at the hotel, soaking up the history of the place (a favourite of Edvard Grieg, Indira Gandhi, Willy Brandt, Henry Kissinger and various European royals) and enjoying the wonderful landscape.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS – Vøringsfossen, Cider tasting tour

ACCOMMODATION – Ullensvang Hotel (Lofthus)

It’s always sad to leave after a holiday, and even more so when you’re surrounded by stunning beauty. To console ourselves we decided to spend a few hours enjoying the pool area of Ullensvang, one of the most impressive that we have ever seen in any hotel.

You have multiple indoor and outdoor pools, including a soothing horizon pool with bubble benches up to the impressive 88 metre long swimming channel outside. It also features a jacuzzi, various heated pools and a wonderful sauna were you can sit and take in the spectacular view of the Sørfjorden in complete bliss. If you are attempting the strenuous but world-class Trolltunga hike, this is the perfect spot to relax afterwards!

We would have happily stayed there the whole day but the wake-up call to reality was slowly approaching. But first we decided to make a detour to the village of Ulvik, perhaps the key cider-making epicentre in Hardanger.

We had little time to stroll around the village, but we got the impression that it is particularly geared towards the cider tasting experience. If you have time (and interest), we definitely recommend to check this out to compare and contrast with Lofthus.

The journey back to Bergen airport alongside the Hardangerfjord takes approximately 2h. A quick stop to break the journey is at the lovely Steinsdalsfossen waterfall (you can even walk behind it!). We also would have liked to check Troldhaugen, Grieg’s villa situated on a pretty nice location overlooking the sea, and in close proximity to the airport but we simple ran out of time. As Grieg use to stay in a Clapham Common apartment during his London tours, we interpreted that as a sign that our trip was over and we were inevitably making our way home.

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